Forespar's Point of View
Blogging About Life on the WaterTag Archives: boat
Single Engine Parking
It’s a narrow channel, and and a tight dock space. Worse yet, you’ve got a single engine, along with its single prop. Conventional wisdom tells you that you’re going have a tough time docking the boat 
because of that single screw, without a lot of practice. Conventional wisdom is wrong.
Yes, it’s easier with twins. You can back one, forward the other, spin the boat to line it up, both forward (or astern) and ease your way alongside the dock without touching the wheel. With a single many of us angle the bow toward the dock and add power while swinging the helm at the last second and hoping that we don’t bash the dock or stick the bow into boat ahead, which usually involves a quick pop of reverse power. Or come up a little too far away having to go around and try again
Don’t say you’ve never done any of the above. However, there are some simple rules that when applied will work:
Most important – the stern moves First! We think and feel the bow turning just like the car does, when in fact the boat turns by pushing the stern to one side or the other with pressure on the rudder, and forward motion pushes the bow around. If you keep this in mind (to the point that you don’t have to think about it), life with a single is easier.
Second – forget the throttle. Just put the boat into gear, preferably at idle. She will move, and you shouldn’t be in that much of a hurry.
Third – easy into the dock space. Pull up parallel to the dock space and a few feet away. Yes, parallel. Then, crank the helm all the way away from the dock, and slip the gear into forward for about two seconds. The immediately go to reverse for the same time interval. Repeat as necessary, and you’ll find your boat moving sideways into the dock.
Last, wind and current can help or hinder. And, you’ll want to compensate accordingly. Obviously, an onshore breeze is really nifty when it helps push you to the dock, An offshore breeze is going make you work harder to get there. Often, taking down canvas and covers reduces the windage, making things more manageable. Opening the windows reduces wind surface, sometimes to surprising extent. Current can be as, if not more, interesting, but usually solvable if you just make your starting point a bit up the current, and let it push you down into your space while you’re working the boat.
You don’t have be brave or too proud. If you’re having tough time, look over on the dock. When there are people there, many if not most will be happy to help if you just ask. And, most of the time, you can just pull away, go around and start over. You’ll get it in there.
And as in most things nautical, practice helps.
Mike Dwight
FAQ of the Week
Q: What is required to install my Hoyt Boom System?
A: When installing the Hoyt boom, a backing plate is recommended for structural support, which Forespar® does not manufacture. The backing plate must be the same diameter as the pedestal and should be of sufficient thickness to help spread the fastener load. The backing plate can be made of teak, aluminum, stainless steel or hard plastic such as ABS or Nylon. The pedestal can be installed more than 10 feet aft of the J length. If this is done, your jib will most likely need to be re-cut. Make sure the Hoyt boom is installed before you have a sail maker adjust your jib.
The boom needs to be installed so that the pedestal is level. Forespar® sells shims that adjust the pedestal up to a 6o angle. If your deck is angled more than 6o you will have to have custom shims made. It is recommended that a professional rigger install your Hoyt boom to maintain structural integrity. Detailed instructions for installation can be found at http://www.Forespar.com/products/sail-hoyt-jib-boom-system.shtml.
If you have any further questions or need replacement parts, please contact us at sales@forespar.com.
FAQ of the Week
Q: What size Hoyt Boom should I buy for my boat?
A: Deciding what size Hoyt boom to buy is dependent on overall boat length and J dimensions. Model 250 is recommended for boat lengths 25’-29’, Model 300 is for boats 30’-35’ and Model 350 is for boats 35’-42’. More details about choosing the right size can be found here Hoyt Jib Boom.
If you have any further questions or need replacement parts, please contact us at sales@forespar.com.
FAQ of the Week
Q: What are the advantages of a Hoyt Boom?
A: The Hoyt Boom system is a forward boom for your jib that allows for self-tacking. This is a great benefit for short-handed crews and cruisers because it reduces overall workload. Additionally, the Hoyt boom allows for greater trimming ability due to the fact that the outhaul can be adjusted, giving you more control over the leech, and allowing you to control the twist of the jib as you fall off wind, and thus maintaining sail efficiency. When sailing down wind, the Hoyt boom can be used as a whisker pole to hold the jib out, improving speed and handling characteristics.
If you have any further questions or need replacement parts, please contact us at sales@forespar.com.
FAQ of the Week
Q: How do I properly maintain my spinnaker pole when stored on the mast?
A: The spinnaker pole needs to be removed from the inboard mast fitting two or three times a year. When you remove the pole, clean out any salt build-up on the aluminum end fitting and stainless steel mast car toggle using fresh water or vinegar.
If the end fitting is stuck to the mast car toggle, remove the track-end stop and take the spinnaker pole off the track. Place the end fitting and mast car in a bucket of vinegar and let sit for a week. If this does not work, use a hand-held propane torch to heat the aluminum end fitting, which will allow it to expand and slide off the toggle car. Please take care when using the propane torch!
If you have any further questions or need replacement parts, please contact us at sales@forespar.com.